Tooshi Gol Game Reserve, Chitral

In May 2002 I visited Chitral. Chitral is the extreme North West of Pakistan. In winter it is not accessible by road from Pakistan and a route goes through Nuristan in Afghanistan. Chitral is about 12 hours from Peshawar, the provincial capital and also not a Pashtun area. Chitral is home to the Kafir Kalash, the Black Pagans, so called because of their religious beliefs. In a sea of muslims 3000 Kalash live in 3 valleys with their own distinct religious beliefs. The Kalash women wear black adorned with cockles and do not observe Purdah and they have become a unique tourist attraction within Pakistan. Kalash means black, and the women here wear just that. Their beliefs are animistic. Across the border in Afghanistan you had the Red Kaffirs in Kafiristan, but they were forcibly converted to Islam and the area now named Nuristan.
Chitral is one of the few remaining strongholds of the Flare-horned Markhor, a beautiful and majestic wild goat. The male Markhor has serpentile shaped horns making it an awesome trophy. It's name supposedly derives from the Pushto language - Mar meaning Snake and Khor coming from Akhur meaning horns. Some say MarKhor comes from the Persian language meaning Snake Eater.
A national park was established at Chitral Gol where approximately 500 Markhor occur as well as Himalayan Ibex, Snow Leopards Wolves and Snowcock a huge game bird.. Brown Bear no longer occur here. I did not mage to visit this National park but I did go to Tooshi Gol game reserve. A road passes through Tooshi Gol and Markhor can actually be seen from the roadside before dusk. Tooshi Gol is a dry mountainy area. The Markhor can be seen on the ridge and then coming to drink at the river far below. I managed to see 6 Markhor. It is easier to see Markhor here than in Chitral Gol where you might have to trek for days before you see some.
The Golden Oriole, a bright yellow bird sized about a pigeon is also very common in Chitral.