Tuesday, September 27, 2005

Hazarganji-Chiltan National Park, Quetta

It was in Novemeber 2004 I visited Hazarganji-Chiltan National Park just outside of Quetta. Quetta is the provincial capital of Balochistan, whose population has probably doubled because of the Afghan refugees who settled here post 1979. Quetta was clean and re-built in 1935 after an earthquake shattered the then town.
Quetta is not far from Afghanistan and surrounded by dry barren mountains who were greener once upon a time. Grazing of cattle and a drought which started in the mid-90's meant that what little vegetation there was would disappear. Although Balochistan produces most of the gas for Pakistan the vast majority of people from this province got their gas supply much later and some still do not have it now
The beautiful thing about Hazarganji-Chiltan National Park is that is just off the main Quetta to Karachi Highway. Its is approximately 20-30km south-west of Quetta and it takes about 45 minutes to arrive there. There is a park welcome board and the park is fenced off the main road. The park was established to protect the rare and endangered Chiltan Wild Goat, which is only found around the Quetta area. It is probably more or less extinct in the other areas and about 100 were left on the Chiltan side. The area was declared a National Park to preserve this species endemic to Pakistan and Balochistan. There are approximately 1000 Chiltan Wild Goats in the National Park now.
The entrance is on the plains which then gradually rise. The fact that the park is fenced off allows the vegetation to grow and this is on one of the few areas of Balochistan where you see this. The plains were a golden colour and slowly rose. We saw a Grey Shrike perched on a shrub, a number of Chukors and an Eagle soaring in search of prey. Isa Khan was a local person also a game warden. He said it was unlikely we saw the Chiltan Wild Goat as the brewing storm would have made sure it found some sort of cover.
I decided to go for a walk to see what could be seen. The path followed into a gorge and I trekked up a little. I was alone and did feel nervous. There were possibly 25 Wolves in the park and I would not have known what to do had a pack confronted me. There were no Leopards or Bears but I am sure th former would be found here. I was possibly at least a kilometre from Shams and the guest house. The air was full with noises of the Chukor Partridge. High above I saw an eagle or vulture soaring in and out of the fog which was gathering against the high peaks. It was getting darker and I decided to head back. Shams made his way to me and on our way down I saw that a fire had been lit in the distance where the guest house was. Visitors came in the evening to the park as it was a quiet place to come for a drink.
The name HazarGanji mean "a thousand treasures" and it was easy to see how it earned it's name.

0 Comments:

Post a Comment

<< Home