Tooshi Gol Game Reserve, Chitral

In May 2002 I visited Chitral. Chitral is the extreme North West of Pakistan. In winter it is not accessible by road from Pakistan and a route goes through Nuristan in Afghanistan. Chitral is about 12 hours from Peshawar, the provincial capital and also not a Pashtun area. Chitral is home to the Kafir Kalash, the Black Pagans, so called because of their religious beliefs. In a sea of muslims 3000 Kalash live in 3 valleys with their own distinct religious beliefs. The Kalash women wear black adorned with cockles and do not observe Purdah and they have become a unique tourist attraction within Pakistan. Kalash means black, and the women here wear just that. Their beliefs are animistic. Across the border in Afghanistan you had the Red Kaffirs in Kafiristan, but they were forcibly converted to Islam and the area now named Nuristan.
Chitral is one of the few remaining strongholds of the Flare-horned Markhor, a beautiful and majestic wild goat. The male Markhor has serpentile shaped horns making it an awesome trophy. It's name supposedly derives from the Pushto language - Mar meaning Snake and Khor coming from Akhur meaning horns. Some say MarKhor comes from the Persian language meaning Snake Eater.
A national park was established at Chitral Gol where approximately 500 Markhor occur as well as Himalayan Ibex, Snow Leopards Wolves and Snowcock a huge game bird.. Brown Bear no longer occur here. I did not mage to visit this National park but I did go to Tooshi Gol game reserve. A road passes through Tooshi Gol and Markhor can actually be seen from the roadside before dusk. Tooshi Gol is a dry mountainy area. The Markhor can be seen on the ridge and then coming to drink at the river far below. I managed to see 6 Markhor. It is easier to see Markhor here than in Chitral Gol where you might have to trek for days before you see some.
The Golden Oriole, a bright yellow bird sized about a pigeon is also very common in Chitral.

Tanda Dam Wildlife Park, Kohat

In February 2002 I managed to visit the Tanda Dam Wildlife Reserve in Kohat District. Tanda Dam is a man-made water storage reservoir which has been fenced off now a wildlife park.
We set off from Peshawar and then headed over the Darra pass. Darra Adam Khel is home to the AdamKhel sub-section of the Afridis and they manufacture weaponry in this area. Thr rise up is astounding but scary as one continuously sees trucks crawling up this snake like road. At the top of the pass one can see the Kohat area below and then the road dips on to the plains. The government has now made and opened the Kohat Tunnel - a 2 mile long tunnel passing under the mountain into Kohat. The dip down into Kohat by passes Kotal wildlife Park, where one can see various species of Ungulates for captive breeding purposes. It is possible to see them even as the road meanders down.
The journey to Tanda Dam is through the rural areas of Kohat. The Dam has started attracting winter visiting waterfowl as they are also protected. I managed to spot Grey Herons, a pair of Black Stork - my first sighting off this bird, Lapwing, other waders and ducks which were to far to recognise. The far end was preserved for the captive breeding of Ungulates. The fenced reached high up the hillside and a number of vital habitats were created for a number of different species. The forest and scrub was quite thick too. We were told by the game guard there were about 50 Hog deer which preferred the waters edge. There were about 20 Chinkara which were found in the scrub forest and the hillsides. There were also about 20 Nilgai which were found in the scrub forest too. There were also about 10 Urial which were found on the hillsides.
We took a walk in the scrub but did not manage to se anything. Right at the end the guard pointed something out to us as we watched from a roof top. From the vegetation a large dark animal proudl walked out - a Nilgai Bull. It was at quite a distance but an immense pleasure to see. We did not manage to see anything else but who knows maybe next time?

Hazarganji-Chiltan National Park, Quetta

It was in Novemeber 2004 I visited Hazarganji-Chiltan National Park just outside of Quetta. Quetta is the provincial capital of Balochistan, whose population has probably doubled because of the Afghan refugees who settled here post 1979. Quetta was clean and re-built in 1935 after an earthquake shattered the then town.
Quetta is not far from Afghanistan and surrounded by dry barren mountains who were greener once upon a time. Grazing of cattle and a drought which started in the mid-90's meant that what little vegetation there was would disappear. Although Balochistan produces most of the gas for Pakistan the vast majority of people from this province got their gas supply much later and some still do not have it now
The beautiful thing about Hazarganji-Chiltan National Park is that is just off the main Quetta to Karachi Highway. Its is approximately 20-30km south-west of Quetta and it takes about 45 minutes to arrive there. There is a park welcome board and the park is fenced off the main road. The park was established to protect the rare and endangered Chiltan Wild Goat, which is only found around the Quetta area. It is probably more or less extinct in the other areas and about 100 were left on the Chiltan side. The area was declared a National Park to preserve this species endemic to Pakistan and Balochistan. There are approximately 1000 Chiltan Wild Goats in the National Park now.
The entrance is on the plains which then gradually rise. The fact that the park is fenced off allows the vegetation to grow and this is on one of the few areas of Balochistan where you see this. The plains were a golden colour and slowly rose. We saw a Grey Shrike perched on a shrub, a number of Chukors and an Eagle soaring in search of prey. Isa Khan was a local person also a game warden. He said it was unlikely we saw the Chiltan Wild Goat as the brewing storm would have made sure it found some sort of cover.
I decided to go for a walk to see what could be seen. The path followed into a gorge and I trekked up a little. I was alone and did feel nervous. There were possibly 25 Wolves in the park and I would not have known what to do had a pack confronted me. There were no Leopards or Bears but I am sure th former would be found here. I was possibly at least a kilometre from Shams and the guest house. The air was full with noises of the Chukor Partridge. High above I saw an eagle or vulture soaring in and out of the fog which was gathering against the high peaks. It was getting darker and I decided to head back. Shams made his way to me and on our way down I saw that a fire had been lit in the distance where the guest house was. Visitors came in the evening to the park as it was a quiet place to come for a drink.
The name HazarGanji mean "a thousand treasures" and it was easy to see how it earned it's name.

The Lal Sohanran National Park, Bahawalpur

In March 2002 I had managed to visit Pakistan again, visiting many different areas. The third National Park I had managed to visit was the Lal Sohanran NP or sometimes spelt Lal Suhanran in Bahawalpur. It was some 40km away from the actual town. I managed to arrive in Bahawalpur in the late afternoon. I came with a British Internet friend I had made known as Alan Cox, aged about 60 and who spent the last seven years teaching English in Multan and his assistant Tariq. The bus was cramped and full of almost gypsy like people who were heading to Bahawalnagar. Halfway down was our stop and then we hired a rickshaw to take us further into the countryside. The National Park starts with a childrens park an enclose full of wild animals, which are more or less native or were native to the area - Chinkara, BlackBuck, Hog Deer, Nilgai, Rhino and the Indian Peafowl. Rhino and Blackbuck are now extinct within the wild in Pakistan but plans are to reintroduce both back into the wild. Blackbuck became extinct within the 1960's but some were gifted to American ranchowners, who happily gifted some back and breeding herds were slowly established. There are now over 400 Blackbuck in the Lal Sohanran enclosure but that threat of drought and hunting would surely eliminate them again. Rumours of a Top Pakistani politician hunting the rare, endangered and beautiful Blackbuck within the safety enclosures spread. The male is a striking dark chocolate brown with a white underbelly and long spiralling horns. There are also captive breeding programmes for Nilgai, Hog Deer and Chinkara but the main focus is the Blackbuck.
The lal Sohanran National Park consists of a man made irrigated forest plantation, the cholistan desert and a man man water reservoir which attracts thousands of wildfowl in winter. One can hire a ricksaw or even a car and drive the 17km journey from the entrance of the park to the end of the park. One can visit and gain entrance to the Blackbuck enclosure, the Lion safari and the guest houses. The area is superb for bird watching and as you drive to the Lion Safari on the right hand you can see the Bahawalpur Canal - watch out for the turtles and waterfowl on the canal. The Lion Safari is an ecnlosed area of forest with two male lions and two female. Ideally the Lions should be the rare and endangered Asiatic Lion but it seems that they are African Lions. I had thought maybe they planned to introduce the Lions into this area as they were recorded over 200 years ago. The prey base is too small to sustain a viable number of Lions. We also spotted about 4 Nilgai in the forest - they were probably kept there to make sure the Lions did not forget how to hunt. I took a walk in the forest and did manage to see wild Nilgai roaming freely. There were plenty of Tawny Eagles too.
The guesthouses are in quite good condition and contain alot of information on Bahawalpur, which once was a princely state led by the Abbasi Family. Bahawalpur is cleaner and greener than Multan, with wide spacious roads and the people look smarter and less poverty stricken. The National Park serves as a great day out or even a weekend holiday. I have managed to visit it two times in 2002 and 2004. I am sure if I am in the area again I will visit without hesitation.

Murree, Ayubia and the Galiyat.

Murree, Ayubia National Park and the Galiyat
Ayubia National Park and the Galiyat are part of the Murree Hills but further North and not in Punjab, but in NWFP. Murree is about 2200 m high up and very cool in the summer. The British used it as a summer retreat to escape the heat of the Plains. The Galiyat is plural for Gali, which means narrow street in the local language Hindko.
Summer in Murree feels really refreshing. One can smell the fresh pines and across the valley see fresh crisp fog blanketing the higher peaks. A walk in the forests of Murree is extremely relaxing. Sadly Murree has lost most of its charm because it is getting hotter and hotter. The effects of global warming can be felt here. One can also see that so many hillsides are treeless. Deforestation at the local level will make things worse. Now there is talk of a new town to be built at Patriata, which could have alarming consequences for the environment and ultimately the people.
By driving further north you will come to NWFP and what is known as the Galiyat. The forests are much thicker ar Changla Gali, Doonga Gali and Nathia gali. It is here that the tallest peak is found at 2900 m plus and known as Miranjani. The Galiyat is not as busy as Murree but its serenity and tranquility are it's charms. You wil see bands of Rhesus Monkeys here more frequently almost tame. There isa chairlift at Ayubia which drags you up then down and one can see some extremely beautiful views, apparently one can see the Pir Panjal range in Indian controlled Kashmir. I managed a hike from Nathiagli to the tallest peak known as Miranjani. It was shattering but I will never forget the silence of the forests disturbed by bird song and fluttering. I managed to see 2 Koklass Pheasants and possibly a hunting Goshawk. Goshawks are recorded as only vagrants here.
Further North there is Thandiani - thand means cold and the place is aptly named. The forest is very eerie and we managed to see about 4 yellow throated Martens here - small but long cat type creatures for those who do not understand.
Leopards are quite common here and in the summer of 2005 6 women were reported killed by these beautiful but dangerous large cats. There may also be a few bears left. The Galiyat is an unspoilt, the finest section being Thandiani for sure. One would be suprised how British the area looks. It looks very like a mini England.

The Margalla Hills, Islamabad

I cannot believe that I am back here again today. Blogs must be quite addictive, especially if they mean you are keen on writing. I had only managed to visit the Margalla Hills National Park at this stage. The first time I had visited the Margalla Hills was by accident. I did nt even know it was a national Park. The Margalla Hills stretch from Wah to North of Islamabad and then merge into the Murree hill range. The highest point within the Margalla Hills is about 1600m plus high. The hills just north of Islamabad are green but further west you go it becomes more barren and some hills have been quarried. The first time I visited the Margallas was in December 1996 but then I managed to visit again in July 1998. There was a zoo just at the foot of the Hills and then a steep climb to a view point called Daman I Koh where one can see Rawalpindi and Islamabad below and ona clear day as far as the Salt Range. I had seen many species of birds there. The Margallas were home to leopards, Hyaenas, Goral - a goat antelope, Barking Deer, Chinkara, Wild Boar, Rhesus Monkey's, Porcupines and many smaller mammals. Birds included the rare Khalij and Cheer Pheasants. The Margalla Hills was is one of the richest areas of bird life in pakistan - the highest number of species has been recorded here. It was understandable as it is quite a dense forest which receives quiet alot of rainfall.
I have never managed to hike to trek here - I have taken a small walk in the forest but nothing major. One of the biggest problems the Margalla Hills faces is habitat destruction. The trees are cut down for firewood and villagers graze their livestock here. The villagers do not know much about over grazing and the serious effects of deforestation. On top of that the Government does little to combat these issues. There is a fast growing population who is placing severe pressure on the natural resources. The population growth must settle down before anything can be done to solve the environmental problems.
The Margallas were once upon a time home to Tigers, the Back Bear. The tiger is now extinct within pakistan while the Black Bear is found in more desolate regions. The last tiger was shot in Bahawalpur, by a man of the British Government I believe in 1906. The Margallas are a great way to enjoy a day out in Islamabad.

The Pakistan Nature Club

The Pakistan Nature Club

My Interest in Wildlife

One of my Biggest concerns I guess is Environmental destruction. It has to be one of the most serious issues affecting this world today. Since I was a child I have always been an animal lover. I used to collect figures of african wildlife and I had a sticker book from WWF and it really opened my eyes up about the number of different species globally. By the age of 13 I lost interest and it was not until when I was 18 my interest was rekindled. It was on a visit to my ancestral area in North West pakistan and seeing a Black and White bird flashing as it took off and landed further on in the fields. It was not something I could recognise but somethign which had caught my eye. I found out the local name and realised this bird occured in England and was known as the Lapwing. But by the time I had found that out I had trawled through many books in relation to wildlife of the Middle East, South Asia and also Europe.
What suprised me the most was that in my ancestral country there was quite a number of species which i was shocked that occurd - Snow Leopards, Leopards, Gazelles, a number of Wild Sheep and Goat Species, Deer - although nearly every one was under threat from extinction. In one of the books I saw a reference to "The Mammals of Pakistan" written by Dr T J Roberts. I ordered this book from the library as to be honest it is cheaper than buying it and the day it arrived was the day my life probably took a turn. I read the book on the way home and then I realised the vast wealth of wildlife that occured there - Snow Leopard, Leopard. Lynx, Caracal - medium sixed cat, Wolf, 3 species of Foxes, Hyaenas, Brown, Bears, Black Bear, Honey Badger, 4/5 species of small wild cats, 2 species of Wild Monkeys, Porcupine, Pangolin, Wild Ass - wild horse not the nasty bit you are thinking of, Nilgai - a large antelope, 3 wild deer, 2 species of gazelle, 4 species of Wild Goats, 2 species of wild sheep, 2/3 species of Goat-antelopes, a river Dolphin, a huge array of perching birds and waterfowl, falcons, eagles, partridges and 5 species of pheasants.
On the extinct List were - Lion, Tiger, the Asiatic Cheetah, 2 species of large Deer, the BlackBuck antelope - the male being a striking black with white underbelly. Sadly most of the above list were already suffering due to Hunting and Habitat destruction. I compared the list to what we have here in the UK and thought how lucky Pakistan is with its diversity. Being a larger country and not an Island Pakistan would have much moe variety for sure. The habitats range from coastline, mangrove swamps, rivers, lakes, scrub forest, steppe, dry and barren mountains, dry forests, moist forests, alpine meadows, riverain forests. From the coastline at 0 m high and then the second highest mountain at k2 which is abouve 8000 plus - you'd expect alot of change.
For today that is it. I will wite again shortly.